Monday, April 11, 2011

Eat Pray Love: Another day in paradise or a fool's errand?


Those who have read or watched Eat Pray Love will remember Elizabeth Gilbert's journey to Bali happened because on a previous trip she met a local fortune teller, Ketut Liyer, who told her she would return to help him. So in her now famous year of eating, praying and then loving she returned to Bali and the rest is history (and a international best selling book and a block-buster movie).

So here we are in Ubud, Bali and we live not far from Elizabeth Gilbert's famous soothsayer. Our driver, Made, knows of him and today he brought Alex, me and my sister, Sascha to have our fortunes told.

We arrived at a typical Balinese family compound with a sign outside that read:

Mr. Ketut Liyer, Medicine Man, Healing and Meditation, Palm Reading, Balinese Astrology, Painter and Woodcarver and Home Stay.

The compound seemed to consist of several buildings including a kitchen, little houses for sleeping, a washing area and a temple along with the requisite Bali dogs, some cats and caged birds. In addition to the typical family compound set up this one also had several waiting room type chairs, a fridge full of overpriced beverages and deli-counter-style numbers to secure a place in line. There were five other foreigners in the yard waiting to see Ketut and the Balinese drivers sat on the sidelines reading newspapers and talking on cell phones waiting for their clients.

After about an hour Sascha had her turn with the fortune teller. I had gone off on an errand and didn't catch what she had been told. When she was done I sat down on a palm leaf mat next to this elderly man of uncertain age. He wears a sarong and has very few teeth left; when he laughs, which he often does, there is a lone prominent front tooth visible. Ketut was very enthusiastic as I sat down repeating “oh, so so so pretty, hehehe;” the actor in the movie did a very good depiction of him so if you've seen the movie you can imagine it all! He was very warm and sweet.

Here is my fortune:

  • I am going to live until 100 years.

  • I am going to be very rich, “you understand rich?”

  • I will have only one husband.

  • He cautioned Alex not to work at night because some man may come to the house in the middle of the night and whistle and all will be lost for Alex.

  • If we break up with each other it would be “very very bad.”

  • I should not drive fast because there are too many traffic accidents so we should drive slowly and carefully.

  • When he asked me what work I do I told him I'm a nurse but that I don't have job. He looked alarmed. “Why no job?” I said “for resting,” which didn't appease him. So Alex and I both tried “for looking after children.” Still not settled. He looked me carefully in my eyes and said “Oh, no, you must get job when you get home.” He suggested if I don't I won't be able to work ever again.” Geeze. Just as I'm getting to be quite comfortable in my mini-retirement looking after children here comes this guy telling me I have to get a job again. Sheesh!

So there I was feeling rather satisfied at my good fortune, and then Alex sat down and I overheard his fortune. While I'm delighted that he also has a good fortune, it was exactly the same as mine. The difference between our fortunes was that he told me to get a job and Alex that he is very powerful and influential and should write papers to help people (this before knowing Alex's profession or penchant for research).

And after the session Sascha told me that she had also the exact same fortune. And Alex told me that the woman he chatted with from London, Ontario, had told him she got the same fortune too. So it seems that the soothsayer's real genius is knowing that foreigners will pay for a promise of a good life. Although we had previously been told that the price is “an offering” (whatever the person wants to give or can give is acceptable) we were told by one of Ketut's handlers (his son) that the fee is 250 000 IDR. This amounts to about $30 which is a veritable fortune in Bali. Sascha, Alex and I all gladly paid the fee and went on our way with the confidence of knowing we will be happy, rich, and live until 100 years old...

Sascha describes the experience as an expensive compliment...

Riah





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